（click on map to enlarge）
The website Bike Tour Japan has a nicely written page on Utsukushigahara that sold me on the idea of ascending from the east and riding along the northern part of the highlands. Their route culminates with a dip in the hot springs of the Ougatou Hotel on top of the mountain overlooking the valley below. It’s an attractive article you can find in the link below.
I arrived on the Shinkansen in Ueda just before 8:00 am and was soon out on the road making my way up the valley on Rt. 152. Though they suggested taking the smaller road by the river, I took the main road in order to grab some breakfast at McDonalds. It was midweek late in September and the traffic wasn’t bad.
After traveling about 15 km from Ueda Station you’ll see a smaller highway, Rt. 62 off to the right. It is a delightful, quiet road that steadily gains elevation as you move up the valley. It gets narrower and more beautiful as you progress along the Takeshi River.
After traveling a little over 12 km you come to the intersection of Rt. 464. There is a rest stop there called Takeshi Kanko Center, which has a soba restaurant and some nice public restrooms. It’s a good place to get drinks and snacks. I faced some disappointment though as there was a sign on the road broadcasting the closure of Rt. 62 toward Takeishi Pass due to a landslide.
Though my original plans were thwarted, turning left on Rt. 464 provided a pleasant alternative. It immediately begins to switchback up the side of the mountains toward Utsukushigahara. It’s a little less than 13 km from the Kanko Center to the summit near the Utsukushigahara Open Air Museum. Thanks to the switchbacks, the grade is challenging but not unreasonable; never really cracking double digits. I don’t mean to imply that it is a cakewalk. It is a vigorous 1400 meter climb. But it’s steady and never gets really torturous.
I was blessed with beautiful weather. There were clouds but they were the big white puffy ones that provide a beautiful background. Utsukushigahara means “beautiful highlands” and that they are. There are wide spacious meadows and grasslands that provide a perfect background for the glorious 360° panorama of the mountains. Several small trails and walkways allow you to take time and soak in the experience.
I chose to descend on the Venus Line (Highway 460). After passing over Tobira Pass I opted to turn onto Rt. 67 which becomes the Azalea Line. It skirts the mountain and descends toward Matsumoto City. This road is also called the Yomogikoba Rindo. I followed Rt. 67 all the way down off the mountains into the valley to Matsumoto Station.
Although I was unable to complete my original route around the north side, I was not disappointed and was able to experience a splendid trip. I would highly recommend cycling up to Utsukushigahara. But make sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast so you’ll be able to enjoy a nice view.
Utsukushigahara Gallery
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